Grow Tips/Fruiting Conditions

Fruiting Conditions
Rule of thumb to full pin sets and flushes is mostly genetics and only a small bit of ideal perfect fruiting conditions. 70% Genetics. 30% Perfect Conditions. Genetics (like most things) always plays a huge roll in large harvest.
ʘ          Light              ʘ   

Mushrooms need little light to fruit. In the big outdoors, sunlight hitting the mycelium tells the fungus it has grown to a perfect place to produce fruit bodies.

A large range of light sources can be used. Indirect lighting from a window will work. You don’t want direct light from sun or grow light. I enjoy the results of a 6500Kelvin Led. I have had the strips and bars and all do well. Florescent and compact florescent bulbs will work too.

When using indirect sunlight the light cycle will produce mushrooms any time of the year as long as the temperatures and humidity are on point. It ‘s a long argument if mushrooms need light at all. Some growers will run 24hr lights on with artificial lighting. I recommend running a timer set 12 hours lights on/12 hours lights off with artificial lighting.

Δ  Fresh Air Exchange (FAE)  Δ

Mushrooms take in oxygen and put out Co2. Frequent FAE is important to avoid contamination. Contaminates love stale air with high Co2 especially if they are to hot or to humid.

There are a few ways to FAE your grow kit. The most common way to FAE the Personal Fable is to open the lid and fan with the lid for 30 seconds. Only do that about once a day but no more than twice a day.

I have my area setup with a 4in fan on a timer that turns the fan on for 6 min every 6 hours. This blows air around in the tent and allows for FAE. The lids to the totes are not airtight and will let FAE happen without removing the lid or needing holes in the tote.

If you go fanning with the lid off in a dirty area, that could raise the risk of contamination.

Sometimes less touching is better. I have harvested the first flush and never opened the tote once.

ɸ   Misting   ɸ

You want to mist before fanning. Misting the mycelium or fruit bodies shouldn’t be sprayed directly. When you mist you pull the spray bottle away from the tote about 10inches and spray making a fine mist go in the tote. A light spray like this once or twice a week helps develop pinning on the mycelium from the water droplets. You want to see thousands of tiny droplets on top the substrate. Do be careful misting and not overdo it. It is very easily to over water you substrate, especially on the first flush. If you see water collecting and making puddles, you have over done it. I will start misting if I see the substrate not showing water droplets. The tote can go into week 2 of being under the lights before you need to mist (sometimes).

Ж    Humidity    Ж

Humidity should be around 90%RH to see mycelium show pinning (the tiny bowling ball start of a mushrooms fruit body). Pins form when you have the perfect micro climate of moisture evaporating. You can use a hydrometer to measure humidity but one is not necessary. You can measure the humidity by looking at the water condensing on the inside the tote walls, lid, and substrate. You want thousands of super tiny fine mist droplets all over the top of the substrate. The droplets evaporate which become pins then mushrooms. If you don’t have droplets everywhere then you will need to lightly mist to get the humidity up.

‡   Temperature   ‡

Not all mushrooms fruit in the same temperatures or humidity. When growing a new one you may want to try looking at the perfect temps/humid parameters for the best results. As for the fruiting temp ranges, most mushrooms will produce fruits between 72F-80F (22-27C).  PART 1 of the kit, after you inoculate the jar, I have the jar sitting in the tote in the dark around 75F-82F (24-27C). PART  2 of the kit, the tote will be in the dark around 75F-82F(23C-27C) for 10 to 14 days. Once substrate is colonized, Time for PART 3! You go under the light and start fruiting conditions. I set my fruiting temperature around 73F-78F (22C-25C).

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