A large range of light sources can be used. Indirect lighting from a window will work. You don’t want direct light from sun or heavy duty grow light. I enjoy the results of a 6500Kelvin Led. I have had the strips and bars and all do well. Florescent and compact florescent bulbs will work.
When using indirect sunlight the light cycle will produce mushrooms any time of the year as long as the temperatures and humiditys are on point. It ‘s a long argument if mushrooms need light at all. Some growers will run 24hr lights on with artificial lighting. I recommend running a timer set 12 hours lights on/12 hours lights off with artificial lighting.
Δ Fresh Air Exchange (FAE) Δ
Mushrooms take in oxygen and put out Co2. Frequent FAE is important to avoid contamination. Contaminates love stale air with high Co2 especially if they are to hot or to humid. The more fresh air you can give the mycelium, the better fruiting you will have, but the humidity has to be on point.
There are a few ways to FAE your grow kit. A shotgun fruiting chamber, which gives FAE from having ¼in drill bit size holes in a tight line around the center of the whole tote. A more automated approach when using larger totes is having an air pump on a timer pumping fresh air in every other hour. Some go all out with cool mist or sonic humidifiers and air pumps to get the FAE and high humidity. The most common way I think and the way I FAE the Personal Fable is to open the lid and fan with the lid for 30ish seconds or I have a 6in fan I can turn on and fan with for 30ish seconds.I will do this 4 to 6 times a day. If you do use this way, do pay attention to how clean the area is. If you go fanning with the lid off in a dirty area, that could raise the risk of contamination. I have the substrate pasteurized as to sterilized for this reason. Sterile substrate must be handled in a very sterile environment or is easily contaminated as to pasteurized substrate which is able to be in open air environments a little better with conditions slightly under sterile without contamination.
ɸ Misting ɸ
You want to mist after fanning, if the tote is not at the right humidity ranges. Misting the mycelium or fruit bodies shouldn’t be sprayed directly. When you mist you pull the spray bottle away from the tote about 10inches and spray making a fine mist go in the tote. A light spray like this once a day on the first flush helps develop pinning on the mycelium from the water droplets. It’s like a fine morning dew on a cow pie. Do be careful misting and not overdo it. It is very easily to over water you substrate, especially on the first flush. If you see water collecting at the bottom you tote in between the liner and tote, you have over done it.
Ж Humidity Ж
Humidity should be around 90%RH to see mycelium show pinning(the tiny bowling ball start of a mushrooms fruit body). You can use a hygrometer to measure humidity but one is not necessary. You can measure the humidity by looking at the water condensing on the inside the tote walls. You want to see moister, if not you will need to lightly mist to get the humidity up. After your first flush (harvest), you will need to re-hydrate the cake.To do this, I will pour 2 cups of water over the cake and let it soak for 15-20 minutes then drain off what water wasn't soaked up. I use distilled water but you can use tap water.
‡ Temperature ‡
Not all mushrooms fruit in the same temperatures or humiditys. When growing a new one you may want to try looking at the perfect temps/humid parameters for the best results. As for the fruiting temp ranges I feel will always produce no matter what mushroom it is, are between 70F-79F (22-27C). In the incubation part of the kit, after you inoculate the jar, I have the jar sitting in the tote in the dark around 75F-85F (24-30C).